User profile: flengs

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Forums > Travel Yunnan > Traveling into Tibet from the Nujiang valley

Yes, that's why I backed out of my plan. The timing is not right. I was just curious if there is anyone with experience traveling from Nujiang into Tibet. I'm looking at those areas on the map and the stories I hear make it very attractive.

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Forums > Travel Yunnan > Traveling into Tibet from the Nujiang valley

Next July, 2 of my good Chinese friends are planning to travel to Zayu (Chayu 察隅) in Tibet. They want to drive a 4-wheel drive from the Nijiang valley. I'm very eager to join them. Assuming that it would be impossible for me to get a permit with my Dutch passport, they propose I hide out somewhere in the back of the car (big expensive 4-wheel drive) at the checkpoints. I'll have to be very low profile on the trip itself and not show myself in villages at times of daylight, etc.

Does anyone have any experience doing something like this? What would be the consequences if I'm found out somewhere beyond the checkpoints? Will I get deported, or can I continue my stay in China with paying some kind of fine? I've heard some contradicting stories on this. Has anyone been to Zayu? I'm just assuming I won't get there in any legal way, or would it be possible for me to get a permit?

Thank you for any input!

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Thanks everyone for the invaluable input to this interesting discussion. I might have gotten a little heated up with this singular story you hear so often, the "Great Wall of China" story and the "Tea Horse Road" story, which definitely glances way over the complexities that make it interesting in the first place. @peter thanks for sharing with us that vivid image of the Khampa ruffians traveling afar in the good old days. I'm sure that makes for some fantastic stories! I'm sure I'll have to dive into that a little more. Do you recommend any specifically engaging sources on their exploits?

According to a friend, Nakeli was completely destroyed by a large earthquake and has been rebuilt as a 'tea road theme park'. I don't know the sources for this, but I know I can trust the friend who told me.

@Mike, please let me apologize for accusing you of doing "too little research", that was not fair for I can also see that the article was only meant as an introduction. Like I said, I usually get an automatic allergic reaction when I think stories lack the complexities they deserve, and that is more to blame to the mainstream tourist industry that is abound everywhere then to you in your quality as a travel writer. Again, no offence and thanks for your article. I didn't go into the trouble to write it myself.

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What always bothers me is the impression about "The Tea Horse Road" of "men making the entire journey in one go" like stated in this article. That is indeed the thing that is told at the official Tea Horse Road theme parks (like Nakeli) all over the province. But if you only do only a little more research, you find that there were indeed multiple routes with multiple wares. Not moving statically like a group of men in one go from point to point, but much more functioning as a network, stretching far over current national borders into Southeast Asia. Then winding through Yunnan from one "bazi" to another with different pack animals and different ways to pack them. Who in their right minds would think that a pack animal from southern Yunnan would be fit to cross 5000+ meters passes up in Tibet? Those places involved other people, animals, different wares, and a completely different style. It's an interesting given indeed that stuff from Southeast Asia indeed ended up in Tibet, but to imagine it was a single group of people delivering it there from point to point, that's far out. It was much more dynamic and diverse than this story of "the" Tea Horse Road that is marketed everywhere for the sake of appeasing tourists. Thanks for the article, but if you're interested in this piece of history, it wouldn't hurt to do a little more research.

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@Peter99 I'd be very excited to hear that story about when King Gesar came to fight the Dali King. Do you know where I'd be able to find it?

Reviews

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This place is without doubt my favorite restaurant in Kunming. It is truly Simao-style, but adds its own unique touch. The ingredients vary per week and the ingredients are all carefully sourced in specific markets or brought straight from the mountains. Their wild vegetables are always sweeter than other places in Kunming. There are plaques on the wall that say: "we don't feel the need to enhance the flavor with weijing or jijing, we do our best to source the best natural foods for you". You will not see any grease after finishing the plate, not even with the deep fried dishes. They are very flexible with ordering combinations and the super-friendly owner-chef will be happy to step out of the kitchen and give you some great advice. If he has time, because this place is crowded on most evenings. Service is friendly and attentive (but it is still Kunming). You get free home-made kimchi and apple vinegar with all meals. They have cold Fenghuaxueyue beer. Without doubt a safe Chinese eatery, really delicious food, friendly people who are passionate about their product. A true gem, in my opinion.

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I heard Richland Hospital has proper testing material.

I think the medical staff is of the same level as other Kunming healthcare facilities. I needed to translate some specifics of a medical report I got in another specialized hospital. I wanted to do this by letting the Richland doctor have a phone call with the specialized doctor that had done the tests. I came in and there sat a young physician with a translating nurse. When the phone call to the other hospital wasn't successful he wanted to have look at the report himself. I asked if that would make sense if he wasn't a doctor that was specialized in that specific field. He told me he wanted to have a look anyway. To my horror, he promptly misdiagnosed me with a truly appalling disease. When I came home I was puzzled. I didn't have any symptoms, how could I have something that serious. I checked the internet and found out that the condition that he described DIDN'T EVEN EXIST. Well, I have to give him, he had me stressing out there for a minute. I wanted to confront him with his mistake but apparently all the doctors had taken the weekend off. Eventually, in combination with my visit to the other state run facility, I was in constant uncertainty and stress over the period of 4 days for something that turned to be NOTHING. I had NOTHING.

Please use the highest level of common sense in dealing with local healthcare. The situation is grim. Best to let them test (if the facilities are ok) and make conclusions and decisions by yourself, if serious ask a physician in another country. Never blindly trust anything they say.

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Really friendly people, very tasty proper Indian food, all made with fresh ingredients and very reasonably priced.

For sure the best Indian food in town!