The Nordica area (near Baiyaochang--take bus 22 south from Jianchilu or bus 62 from Jinbiguangchang) has a number of cafes where you can get a (slightly overpriced) drink, and if you're looking for non-Wenlinjie western food Nordica is usually veryvery quiet for weekday lunches. Just bring a sweater because it's such a big space that it's usually freezing. Or order hot chocolate.

The higher up you get on the Tibetan Plateau (elevation-wise) the cooler the nights with the days still warm this time of year. Outside Zhongdian as it gets toward fall is bound to be nice, or if you're up for the bus ride, the area surrounding Deqin is beautiful at about 11,000 feet. Can't get much cooler than low-elevation glaciers this time of year. Can fly into Zhongdian, then take a six-hr bus ride to Deqin, rent a car for pretty cheap out to Mingyong village at the base of the glacier, and hike around. Otherwise Zhongdian is about 13-hr overnight bus for aroun 160Y from Kunming. Dali's nice too, happy travels.