Where would you recommend a three-time visitor of Kunming to see an alternative side of Kunming? (I've seen all the touristy stuff.) Ok that's kind of a vague question and subjective. Are there any art districts or galleries? Alternative music bars? Cool streets with boutiques? Anything else that Lonely Planet doesn't cover that you would recommend to see? Thanks in advance :)

Given that the Lonely Planet doesn't cover a whole lot, nor with much enthusiasm, this should be easy. Unfortunately, I only know of a couple art spaces which may or may not qualify as alternative. The Nordica/Loft area is a nice space which has displays and music semi-regularly, but the most interesting part is really the fact that all above and around it there are artists holed up in their warehouse-style studios, including the famous creator of the babies-in-uniforms paintings. This area is at the Bai Yao Chang stop on the 62 and 120 bus routes. Another studio/artist hang-out is actually in back of the Minorities museum near Dianchi, straight across from the Minority Village. I'm not sure if it's open to the public, but if you walk around past the dormitory-style buildings to the back of the Museum there it is, in a door and downstairs. Finally, I've heard of the occasional nude art demonstration at the Art School (Yishuxueyuan) northwest of Cuihu but I wouldn't count on it.

A couple of posts on this site that may be relevant to your quest:

If you're into kitsch, there is a massive Optimus Prime statue in NW Kunming: www.gokunming.com/en/blog/item.php?blog_id=23

There's also today's post about an indie label in Kunming, a new music bar in the university area and a lomo exhibit: www.gokunming.com/en/blog/item.php?blog_id=47

Hope that helps.

You can also take bus 22 to bai yao chang to get to nordica from the jianshe lu stop near wenlinjie. It's my favorite bus, as it also passes through the KunDu disco area.

I think Kunming is on the verge of having a very interesting and international alternative/indie scene, but we're not quite there yet. Come back in a few years?