Summertime view of Fuxian Lake

Nestled in the most southwestern part of China, Yunnan Province is a land of stunning natural beauty and mysterious allure. As we quietly approach the end of summer, many cities in China, such as Shanghai, are still enduring scorching temperatures, hovering around 35 degrees Celsius. Therefore, even in mid-September, Yunnan remains an ideal summer retreat.

With its unique geographical location and pleasant climate, Yunnan has become an ideal destination to escape the urban heat and enjoy a cool summer. Tengchong City, with its temperate weather and geothermal hot springs, offers a soothing retreat. Puzhehei, picturesque lakes and karst landscapes provide a serene atmosphere, complemented by a gentle breeze. Yuxi, known for its mild and comfortable temperatures, is a hidden gem with tranquil surroundings. Stone Forest Geopark, with its unique stone forest and cool climate, invites exploration without the discomfort of summer heat. These locations not only promise cooler temperatures but also showcase the best of Yunnan's natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Tengchong: a tranquil spot in southwest China

Tengchong, a unique city located in the western part of Yunnan Province, is renowned for its rich natural landscapes, profound cultural heritage, and strategic geographical position bordering Myanmar. It serves as a vital gateway for China to South Asia and Southeast Asia and is also well-known for its historical connection to the Flying Tigers.

In summer, Tengchong's natural and cultural attractions present a captivating charm. The ancient forests and waterfalls of the Gaoligong Mountains (高黎贡山) are especially striking in the fresh air. Beihai Wetland (北海湿地) is adorned with blooming irises, creating a picturesque and poetic scene that delights nature enthusiasts. Heshun Old Town (和顺古镇) exudes a rich historical atmosphere, with blooming lotus flowers and lush greenery providing a tranquil retreat for visitors. Meanwhile, National Volcanic and Geothermal Park (火山地热国家地质公园) showcases unique geothermal wonders within the volcanic crater, with the summer climate making the exploration of volcanic landscapes and hot air balloon rides even more enjoyable and unforgettable.

Gaoligong Mountains (高黎贡山), known as the "Sanctuary of Life" and the "World Species Gene Pool," offers a refreshing escape during the summer months. A trek through these ancient forests in the summertime allows you to immerse yourself in the lush greenery, where vibrant foliage and blooming wildflowers create a vivid tapestry of colors. The cool, crisp air is invigorated by the gentle breeze, providing a welcome respite from the summer heat.

What's even more remarkable is that the heart of the Gaoligong Mountains is rich in geothermal resources, with natural hot springs scattered like stars. These mineral-rich springs nourish the land and offer a natural haven for travelers. Here, visitors can soak in the soothing embrace of the hot springs, experiencing warmth and comfort from the earth's core, while enjoying the stunning surrounding landscapes. It's a place where both body and mind can find complete relaxation and healing, making for a double feast of physical and spiritual rejuvenation.

Waterfall from Gaoligong Mountains

Beihai Wetland (北海湿地) is a stunning destination that blends natural beauty with rich ecological diversity. As the only volcanic barrier lake wetland in southwest China, it boasts a unique ecological environment and a well-preserved wetland ecosystem, making it an ideal place to explore the mysteries of nature and experience the beauty of ecology. Visitors can marvel at the massive grass mats formed by intertwined sedges, a testament to nature's craftsmanship. Additionally, Beihai Wetland serves as a habitat for numerous endangered plants and migratory birds, offering a rich experience for nature observation.

In early summer, Beihai Wetland resembles a vibrant natural painting. Iris flowers bloom in abundance, filling the area with a romantic purple hue, complementing the lush floating grass and creating a beautiful wetland landscape. Waterfowl nest and freely soar here, adding a lively spirit to the wetland. With a pleasant and cool climate, visitors can stroll along the boardwalks, enjoy the breathtaking scenery up close, engage in various water activities, and immerse themselves in the magical charm of nature.

Beihai Wetlands is located in Beihai Village and can be reached by taking bus route 13 from Tengchong City. Get off at the Beihai Wetlands stop, and from there, it's a short walk to the ticket center. The entrance fee is 110 yuan, and a boat ride costs 30 yuan per person.

Beautiful scenery of Beihai Wetland

Heshun Old Town (和顺古镇), with over 600 years of history, is renowned for its well-preserved Ming and Qing dynasty architecture (明清建筑) and unique frontier culture. However, Ming and Qing dynasty architecture is a highlight of its cultural heritage. The buildings feature traditional wooden structures with intricate carvings, curved eaves, and upturned roof corners, showcasing the craftsmanship of ancient Chinese artisans. Heshun is not only a famous hometown for overseas Chinese but is also known as a "paradise on earth" for its tranquil environment and leisurely pace of life, making it an ideal place to experience traditional culture and natural beauty.

By the pond in Heshun Old Town, the newly bloomed lotus flowers gently peek out, while dragonflies flutter and soar among them. The lush green scenery stretches out as far as the eye can see, with a gentle breeze carrying the faint fragrance of lotus blossoms. In the warmth of summer, the town's serene ambiance is enhanced by the vibrant colors and sounds of nature. The traditional architecture is bathed in sunlight, casting intricate shadows on the cobblestone streets. The peaceful atmosphere, combined with the refreshing scent of lotus blossoms, creates a perfect summer escape, where time seems to slow down, inviting you to savor every moment.

Peaceful time in Heshun Old Town

Tengchong's National Volcanic and Geothermal Park (火山地热国家地质公园), nestled within a volcanic crater, is a natural wonder featuring 99 volcanoes, with 97 located within the park's boundaries. As you ascend the stone steps, the summit rewards you with panoramic views of the ancient crater. Imagining the flames that once raged here millions of years ago adds to the awe of the experience.

During summer, the park offers a unique charm, with lush greenery contrasting against the rugged volcanic landscape. For an even more breathtaking perspective, a hot air balloon ride provides a bird's-eye view of the majestic volcanic craters, making for an unforgettable summer adventure.

The magnificent view of the National Volcanic and Geothermal Park

The most efficient way to reach Tengchong, which is about 600 kilometers from Kunming, is by airplane. Tengchong has its own airport, and direct flights from Kunming take just about an hour, offering a quick and convenient option for travelers. Other modes of transportation, such as driving or taking a long-distance bus, are much more time-consuming.

Puzhehei: a summer oasis of water delights

Puzhehei (普者黑) means "a pond teeming with fish and shrimp" in the local Yi language, reflecting the area's rich natural resources. located in Qiubei County, within the Wenshan Prefecture in the southeastern part of the province, is a picturesque region known for its stunning karst landscape, clear lakes, and charming ethnic culture. Visitors can enjoy activities such as boating on the serene waters, exploring caves, and witnessing the vibrant traditions of the local Yi and Zhuang communities (彝族和壮族社区). The Yi people of Puzhehei are one of the indigenous ethnic groups of this land and are known for their association with fire. The Zhuang are one of the major ethnic groups in Puzhehei, known for their rich cultural heritage and traditional festivals.

Puzhehei is especially popular during summer, when lotus flowers bloom, creating a breathtaking scene. Surrounded by verdant mountains and clear waters, it transforms into a lively summer oasis.

Puzhehei has a high-speed train station, conveniently named after the area. Taking the high-speed train from Kunming is the most convenient way to get there, with a journey time of approximately 2.5 hours. And the train is punctual and efficient, making it ideal for short trips while also allowing you to enjoy the scenic views along the way.

Tourists boating in Puzhehei

Qinglong Mountain (青龙山), is a scenic destination renowned for its lush greenery, majestic peaks, and breathtaking views. Named "Qinglong," meaning "Green Dragon," the mountain's serpentine ridges are covered in dense forests that resemble a dragon stretching across the landscape. In summer, Qinglong Mountain transforms into a vibrant escape, with its cool, refreshing climate offering a retreat from the heat. The mountain is blanketed in verdant foliage and wildflowers, creating a serene atmosphere perfect for hiking along shaded trails, discovering hidden streams, and enjoying panoramic views. The rich biodiversity and tranquil environment make Qinglong Mountain an ideal destination for nature lovers and those seeking a peaceful getaway amidst Yunnan's natural beauty.

Overlooking the beautiful scenery on Qinglong Mountain

Yuxi: the serenity of Fuxian Lake

Fuxian Lake (抚仙湖), located in Chengjiang City, is renowned for its clear, glass-like waters and expansive waves. As the largest deep-water lake in China, Fuxian Lake offers a dynamic and captivating landscape where tranquil scenes seamlessly transition into powerful waves. Surrounded by mesmerizing mountain scenery, the lake's beauty is ever-changing, reflecting the clear blue sky and creating a serene yet exhilarating atmosphere. Steeped in historical and cultural significance, Fuxian Lake is not only a place of natural beauty but also rich in heritage. In the summer, the area comes alive with activities such as swimming, boating, and exploring the lakeside villages. Fuxian Lake's delightful weather and breathtaking scenery create the perfect backdrop for those looking to blend relaxation with adventure in nature's embrace.

Driving to Fuxian Lake in Yuxi is the most efficient transportation option. Fuxian Lake is about 60 kilometers from Kunming, and the drive typically takes 1 to 1.5 hours. Driving not only offers flexibility and convenience but also allows you to enjoy the scenic views along the way, making it a great choice for family or friends traveling together.

Fuxian Lake during summer time

Exploring the Stone Forest Geopark

Stone Forest Geopark (石林风景区), this area is the home of the legendary Ashima and features average temperatures between 16°C and 25°C. Shilin Scenic Area is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a global geopark, boasting unique karst formations that have formed over 270 million years. It's also a popular filming location, providing a dramatic natural backdrop for various TV dramas. Shilin Scenic Area is located in the Shilin Yi Autonomous County (石林彝族自治县), the Yi ethnic (彝族) minority is one of the ethnic groups in China with a long history and ancient culture. The entrance fee is 130 yuan, with a discounted rate of 65 yuan per child.

The most efficient way to travel to Shilin is by taking the high-speed train. You can catch a high-speed train from Kunming South Station to Shilin Station, with a journey time of about 1 hour. This option is fast and comfortable. Upon arriving at Shilin Station, you can easily take a taxi or local bus to reach the Stone Forest Geopark, making for a convenient and enjoyable travel experience.

Karst landform of Stone Forest Geopark

In the end, Yunnan offers a range of summer retreats where visitors can enjoy cool climates and stunning natural beauty. Whether seeking adventure or tranquility, these destinations promise an unforgettable experience.

Inside view from Leju Village

Nestled just a short drive from Kunming, Leju Village and its surrounding areas offer a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. Visitors can explore ancient Yi architecture (古彝建筑), indulge in artisanal delights, and experience the harmony of multiple ethnic cultures, the Yi ethnic (彝族) minority is one of the ethnic groups in China with a long history and ancient culture. Key attractions include the tranquil Leju Village with its traditional rammed-earth houses, the immersive Leju Ethnic Cultural Park, the charming Leju Zhiyan Guesthouse, and the culinary adventures of Tuanjie Town, where rural life and fresh local cuisine create an unforgettable experience.

Discover the beauty of Leju Village

Leju Village (乐居村), a serene and picturesque ancient Yi village (古彝村) that feels like a pearl lost in the river of history. It nestled among lush green hills and clear waters, is a place where time seems to stand still. Each brick and tile of the village, built on the contours of the hills, exudes the charm of ages past and the harmony of nature.

The most humble yet striking structures here are the rammed-earth houses. These unadorned buildings, though lacking in ornate decorations, stand as testaments to the passage of time and the resilience of their builders. Leju Village offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, allowing visitors to slow down, relax, and enjoy the tranquility and beauty of this ancient settlement. You don't need a guidebook to explore Leju Village. Simply wander along the stone-paved paths and let the village's timeless beauty unfold before you. The old streets and alleys, with their dark-tiled roofs and earthy yellow walls, form a warm and welcoming picture of daily life. Amid the lively atmosphere, you'll find a peaceful and enduring charm.

A beautiful view of Leju Village from an aerial perspective

Jiuxi Handmade Bread: savoring time in every bite

Wandering through the cobblestone paths of Leju Village, you can't help but be drawn by the irresistible aroma of freshly baked bread. This scent leads visitors to a quaint courtyard with a golden sign reading "Obsessive Dough Kneading Disorder" (重度搓面症患者) – a humorous and inviting tagline for Jiuxi Handmade Bread (九犀手作面包).

As you delve deeper into the village, the rich smell of bread becomes more intoxicating. The blend of pure wheat and artisanal baking creates a warm and inviting scene. Jiuxi Handmade Bread is a shining gem of Leju Village, seamlessly blending tradition and modernity, nature and culture.

Yummy bread picture from Jiuxi Handmade Bread

Each loaf of bread here is more than just food – it's a reflection of a deep passion for a better life. From selecting premium ingredients to hand-kneading the dough, from precise fermentation to careful baking, every step is infused with the utmost dedication and love for quality bread.

Stepping into the shop feels like discovering a treasure trove of bread. The array of breads, with their golden crispy crusts and soft, cloud-like interiors, is mesmerizing. Some are studded with various dried fruits, each bite offering a delightful surprise. The warm, inviting aroma permeates the air, allowing visitors to momentarily forget the worries and noise of the outside world.

Baking bread from outdoors

Exploring Leju Ethnic Cultural Park

Another must-visit treasure in Leju Village is the Leju Ethnic Cultural Park (乐居民族文化园) in Kunming. The park is a living history book, with every corner waiting to be explored by those who appreciate cultural heritage.

One highlight is the cultural heritage exhibition room, which encapsulates 600 years of Leju's history. The room showcases over 300 precious artifacts, from ancient production tools to vibrant ethnic costumes. Each item tells the story of the Yi people's wisdom and hard work, offering a glimpse into their authentic and simple past.

Inside view of Leju Ethnic Cultural Park

Walking through the park feels like traveling through time, witnessing the industrious hands that wove everyday life and the beautiful attire that displayed ethnic pride. The park is especially stunning in spring, with blooming flowers and a 26-meter-long embroidered scroll depicting scenes from "Along the River During the Qingming Festival," reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship of the artisans.

Additionally, the park features unique button art and masterful calligraphy and paintings. Visitors can admire these intricate pieces, further enriching their experience of Leju's cultural and aesthetic heritage.

Cultural heritage exhibition room from Leju Ethnic Cultural Park

Relaxing in Leju Zhiyan Guesthouse

The entire building complex of Leju Zhiyan Guesthouse (乐居之眼名宿) is built along the hillside, facing west to east. The owners have integrated elements of Leju's landscapes into the courtyard design, using local stones and plants to create a miniaturized version of the natural world. Within the courtyard, visitors can feel the essence of the countryside, with small streams flowing and wildflowers blooming along rustic paths.

In the morning, you're gently awakened not by the harsh sound of an alarm but by the melodious birdsong and the gentle murmur of flowing water. This natural symphony is a refreshing way to start the day, leaving you feeling revitalized and serene.

Morning view of the Leju's Eye Guesthouse

Around the tranquil courtyard, you can peruse the well-stocked bookshelves, enjoying the smell of old pages as you bask in the afternoon sun. Alternatively, you can curl up in the tea room with a cup of fragrant tea, letting your thoughts wander freely. The guesthouse also offers an entertainment room and a mini cinema, where you can challenge friends to a game of pool or immerse yourself in a film, adding a touch of excitement to your stay.

Overview of Leju's Eye Guesthouse

A culinary adventure in Tuanjie Town

A visit to Tuanjie Town (团结乡) offers a feast for the senses, starting with the famous "Huajiao Chicken (花椒鸡)." The moment you step into this hidden gem, you're greeted by the sight of slowly turning windmills and expansive green lawns, creating a serene pastoral scene. This is not just a food haven, but also an ideal spot for photos and connecting with nature.

The menu features an array of rustic delights, including crispy fish hot pot, pumpkin blossoms, and apple pancakes. The fresh, farm-to-table flavors are a true culinary delight, offering a taste of simplicity and romance in every bite.

Crispy fish hot pot from Tuanjie Town

In this idyllic corner of the world, you can let your mind rest and your taste buds revel in the rich, peppery goodness of Huajiao Chicken. At Tuanjie Town's Peach Blossom Fishing House (桃花源渔家), a local restaurant, you can embark on an impromptu countryside adventure and savor the joys of rural life.

Peach Blossom Fishing House during spring time

Here in Leju Village, Tuanjie Town, old houses, tiled eaves, traditional kilns, and quaint coffee shops coexist harmoniously, bringing new life to this ancient settlement. The village, once quiet and forgotten, has become a new treasure on the outskirts of Kunming. Are you ready to enjoy a leisurely weekend in Leju Village? don't forget to share your unique experiences!

Getting There

Leju Village is about 36 kilometers from downtown Kunming, and it takes approximately 45 minutes by car. For public transportation, you can take bus C61 from West Bus Station (西站公交站) to Tuanjie Town Station (团结乡站), then walk 1.4 kilometers, with taking around an hour and a half to getting there. Parking in the Leju village is convenient, and entry is free.

The river during rainy season is a sight to behold at the Tiger Leaping George (image credit: Yereth Jansen)

Tiger Leaping Gorge in northwest Yunnan is renowned for its stunning scenery and rugged hiking paths. In my first article, I introduced the Bamboo Forest Path, a scenic route in Tiger Leaping Gorge that is now closed due to a washed-out bridge. This second installment explores the less-traveled Luke-Haba route. This challenging trail, suitable for experienced hikers, offers breathtaking views of the gorge and the adjoining snow mountains of Haba and Jade Dragon. Along the way, trekkers will navigate remote, steep paths and stay in rustic guesthouses, providing an adventurous alternative to the main tourist routes.

Extending the classic Gorge Trek

The classic trek through world-renowned Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡) takes two days for most folks. At the end of the trail, enthusiastic trekkers may wish to prolong the experience.

You can continue your adventure by following the Luke-Haba Route. It's the natural extension of the classic trek, adding another day or two to the journey.

Trek overview

Let's start with an overview of the complete trek.

You should begin at Qiaotou (桥头镇), the origin point of the classic trek. Spend the first night in the gorge at a guesthouse of your own choosing. On day two, continue hiking through the gorge to the terminus at Tina's Guest House, twenty-three km from the start. For details of the hike be sure to read Dan Siekman's excellent guide.

To continue with the extended trek you initially have two choices: (A) travel on to Walnut Garden Village (核桃园), or (B) travel to Luke's Hostel located above the village. Both options follow paved roads for a distance of two and five kilometers, respectively.

On day three, ascend to a ridge floating high above the gorge at 3,200 meters. The birds-eye view up and down the length of the gorge and across the Jinsha River (金沙江) makes the effort worthwhile. Then descend to Ennu Village (恩努村) north of the gorge. Some may wish to end the trek here. The distance for the day is 13 km. In my experience, the hike takes 6½ hours not including rest breaks.

On day four (for those who continue), a morning hike takes you to the agricultural community of Haba Village (哈巴村), famous as the gateway to the fabled Haba Snow Mountain (哈巴雪山). The distance traveled is 8 km in 2½ hours.

Trail difficulty

The classic trek from Qiaotou to Tina's presents a moderate walk for folks in reasonable condition. However, the stretch from Luke's Hostel and beyond is more challenging, both physically and navigation-wise. There is substantial elevation gain (1,000 and 430 meters over two days) and the trail is sometimes obscure. The rugged trail is not suitable for children. Hiring a guide is recommended (for tips on hiring a guide see the end of this article).

Experienced trekkers can complete the journey from Luke's to Haba Village in one day. But that makes for a very long day of 21 km and perhaps ten hours or more. Stopping at Ennu is more manageable for most folks.

Walnut Garden Lodging

Starting from Qiaotou, you will likely reach Walnut Garden Village on the afternoon of day two. The most convenient place to spend the night is Ancient Luke Hostel, located an hour's walk above the village. Alternatively, you could stay at a hostel in the village. Popular places include Sean's, Chateau de Woody, and Tibetan guest houses. One might even consider Tina's Guest House back down the road a bit.

Ancient Luke Hostel (古道栌克青年旅舍), situated at 2,360 meters, offers stunning views and a peaceful environment.

Sean's Spring Guest House (夏山泉客栈) is known for its long-standing presence in the gorge. The owner, Sean (夏山泉), is an activist for the preservation of the gorge and speaks English.

At the time of writing, Chateau de Woody is closed while a new hostel is under construction. For inquiries, contact 13988756901.

Tina's Guest House (中峡国际青年旅舍) is a popular spot among trekkers and the terminus of the classic trek. It is managed by Tina (田永棋) and her family, who speak English.

Getting to Luke's Hostel

Wherever you stay, you'll have to hoof it up to Luke's Hostel, the starting point of the Luke-Haba Route. A guest house can arrange a shuttle if you don't want to pound the pavement.

There are three ways to reach Luke's Hostel. The Bamboo Forest Path (竹林小路) is included for completeness but is currently closed due to a washed-out bridge.

1) Approach Road

From Tina's Guest House, cross the Shen Chuan Bridge (神川大桥) and follow the Tiger Leaping Gorge highway toward Walnut Garden Village. After 1½ km turn left onto a paved side road which ascends the mountain slope. From the signed intersection it is 3.2 km to Luke's Hostel. Higher up, a signed path provides a rough shortcut to the hostel. If walking, plan on 1½ hours with an elevation gain of 350 meters.

2) From Sean's Guest House

The village of Walnut Garden sits 2 km down the road from Tina's (away from Qiaotou). Here there are several guest houses, among which Sean's Guest House is one of the better known. Immediately on the left side of the building, a series of steps lead up to a rough path. The path may be poorly marked but you should end up on the approach road described above. The hike from Sean's to Luke's takes one hour with a gain of 370 meters.

3) Bamboo Forest Path (closed)

This rough and wild path (no roads!) provides the most scenic route by far, passing through an impressive canyon with waterfalls. Unfortunately, the route is no longer passable since the ravine bridge halfway up got washed out in 2021. Zhao Yin (赵银), owner of Luke's Hostel, plans to replace it when funds become available. For path details, see the previous article in this series.

Luke-Haba route trail description

Starting out from Luke's Hostel, head north on a path that ascends in half an hour to Thousand Year Walnut Forest (千年核桃林). A large boulder bears the name painted in Chinese and English. The walnut trees bloom in spring and the nuts ripen in autumn.

After a few more minutes, the trail forks where an arrow painted on a rock indicates you should bear right. The trail continues with little elevation gain, crosses dry drainage, and begins a steady ascent heading east.

Empty Glad Platform

The climb tops out at an open spot called Empty Glad Platform (空欢喜观景台), elevation of 2,680 meters. Time to this point is an hour and twenty minutes. A short spur leads to a wonderful viewpoint overlooking the gorge, one of the finest in all the realm. The view extends down the entire length of the gorge.

The peculiar name invites speculation. Perhaps it's about that feeling of space beneath your feet. Beyond this point, the path is rarely marked and sometimes hard to follow. You may encounter goats wandering about in search of grazing opportunities.

The trail turns north and ascends steadily across steep slopes through stunted forest, followed by a stretch without much elevation gain. Forty minutes above Empty Glad Platform, pass through a tiny notch and navigate a wall by a ledge of built-up stones.

Soon after that, the trail forks, and the Luke-Haba Route continues left. The right fork descends, leading to a massive slide that obliterates the trail, forcing its abandonment.

Shortly beyond the fork, the path reaches a gulley filled with rocks and loose sand, which makes for tough going. Ascend the gully for a hundred meters or so and exit the gully on the right.

High Point

The path continues ascending across sections of sand and rocks, then switchbacks more steeply up sandy ground, before finally traversing right to the highest point of the Luke-Haba Route. The time to the high point is three hours.

Here at an elevation of 3,200 meters, there are limited views up to the East Peak of Haba Snow Mountain. Looking down, the expansive view takes in the Jinsha River and plains around Daju Village (大具乡). Local residents rave about the sunrise from this spot with the gorge in deep shadow.

From the high point head northeast, descending very steeply over sandy ground through open forest without a well-defined path. You might encounter a ridge. Follow it for a short distance before turning left off the ridge and continuing the steep descent in a northeasterly direction. If you encounter a path coming in from the right, that was the old trail now abandoned due to the landslide mentioned earlier.

Watership Tank Meadow

Further down, the old trail turns into a well-beaten track with switchbacks, a welcome respite from the unremittingly steep slope above. The trail descends to a meadow with the odd name of Watership Tank (水览槽观景台), 45 minutes after leaving the high point. Yaks graze placidly among the stone walls here.

Tucked away at the upper edge of the meadow sits a yak herders hut. The roof leaks in various spots while inside chaos reigns, the bunks covered in rank rodent offerings. There is a convenient spot for a fire, however, complete with a pot holder.

The name Watership Tank derives from the water trough outside the hut. A pipe from a spring higher up brings down a trickle of water.

Descending to the bottom edge of the meadow, the Luke-Haba Route enters the forest. The trail soon forks, with the right branch leading to Benxi Village (本习村) in the lower section of Tiger Leaping Gorge. You should take the left fork, which descends to and crosses the bottom of a drainage, followed by a short ascent to a gate. Be sure to leave the gate open or closed as you find it.

Turning the corner

The path traverses gradually downhill along the north side of the drainage. You will spot a quarry across the valley with a road zig-zagging down to Benxi. The trail turns left at around 2,500 meters elevation, "turning the corner" and putting you in the valley proper of Ennu Village. A long traverse northwest follows, with little elevation gain or loss.

Eventually, the path turns northeast and crosses a meadow (27º19'27"N, 100º10'59"E) at an elevation of 2,500 meters. The path enters the forest and heads east for a few minutes, arriving at a hut falling into ruins.

Meadow at an elevation of 2,500 meters

Water Trough Junction

From the hut ruins, the trail turns north and makes a short descent to the bottom of the valley. This marks the low point of the Luke-Haba Route at 2,470 meters (27º19'37"N, 100º11'9"E). The time from Watership Tank Meadow is 1¾ hours. Ennu Village is still one hour away.

I call this place Water-Trough Junction (水槽路口). If you are an animal, you'll enjoy drinking out of the troughs. Humans are less so, once they glimpse the coating of green slime, although newly constructed troughs may remain clean for a time.

Two trekking routes intersect at this important junction: Luke-Haba and Haba-Benxi. The latter leads northwest to Haba Village and southeast to Benxi Village and is the subject of a future article in this series.

From Water-Trough Junction, the Luke-Haba Route heads north on a path ascending gradually through open forest.

Water Trough Junction

Haba Muru River

The path arrives at the main river drainage in the Ennu Valley, notable for its stark grayish-white rocks and sand. During certain parts of the year, the drainage is dry.

I call it the Haba Muru River, a name of convenience for lack of a local name. Haba Muru (pronounced similar to hah-bah moo-roo) is the Naxi name for Haba Snow Mountain and translates as "Golden Flower Snow Mountain".

Just beyond the river, pass through a gate followed soon after by a second gate through a barb-wire fence. Please leave the gates as you found them. Follow the fence line northeast to cultivated fields and finally, Ennu Village, 6½ hours after starting out from Luke's Hostel.

Haba Muru River

Ennu Village

Some folks will end the trek at Ennu and forego the final walk to Haba Village. The village offers no public lodging, but Luke's Hostel might be able to arrange a homestay. You could also inquire about tent camping near Ennu.

Taxi service in Ennu is available through Yang Guomao (杨国茂) at phone number 13988784981. The drive from Ennu to Haba Village takes 25 minutes.

The Desert

For those continuing the trek, you should know that the auto road between Ennu and Haba is 12 kilometers long. The shortcut described next will shrink the road portion to 3 km and the entire walk to 8 km.

Head northwest out of Ennu on the paved road. After two km pass through a sterile sandy area which I call "The Desert" (沙漠), caused by seasonal flooding of a stream coming down off Haba Snow Mountain. During the summer rainy season, the stream deposits sand on the road, forcing drivers to endure a bumpy ride.

The Desert viewed from Pusa Mountain

Pusa Mountain

Just beyond The Desert, the road turns right (north and east) and makes a lengthy switchback over Pusa Mountain (普萨山). To avoid the switchback, leave the road on the left two to three hundred meters past the beginning of the bend. Ascend northwest through open forest, generally without trail, to the 3,030-meter high southwest ridge of Pusa Mountain. A couple of transmission lines climb up to the ridge in the same general vicinity.

Forest walk to Pusa Mountain ridge

Haba Village

From the ridge, it is all downhill to Haba Village. Pass through meadows, then forest and make the final descent. Be sure to avoid the precipitous forested slopes to the right (east) of the meadows.

Hiking time from Ennu Village is typically 1¾ hours to Pusa Mt ridge, and 2½ hours to Haba, rest breaks not included.

Once in the village, several lodging options are available. One popular place is Haba Snow Mountain Inn (哈巴雪山客栈), established in 1990 as the first guest house in the village.

Another option is On the Clouds Inn of Haba (云上哈巴客栈), located in the Hui hamlet of Long Wang Bian (龙汪边).

Inquire at any guest house for transportation south to Tina's Guest House (one hour) or north to the white mineral terraces of Baishuitai (40 minutes). You can also book a passage to Lijiang (丽江) or Shangri-La (香格里拉). The rebuild of the road to Shangri-La was completed in 2023 and takes 2½ hours compared to 4 hours previously.

Guides

I recommend hiring a guide for the Luke-Haba Route, based on my own experience and that of others. I hiked the route twice with a guide before I felt confident I could follow it on my own. Others have gone without a guide with differing results. Some made it to Ennu Village using the very inadequate sketch map available at Luke's Hostel. Others tried, only to return to the hostel after finding the path too obscure to follow.

Some trekkers may decide to dispense with a guide. That is reasonable for experienced hikers, provided they possess good backcountry navigation skills combined with GPS and/or map and compass—and know how to use them.

Luke's Hostel maintains the initial portion of the Luke-Haba Route, so it's the natural go-to place for hiring a guide. If you enquire at Tina's, for example, they will refer you to Luke. Best to get in touch several days in advance.

If you prefer an English-speaking guide, contact Sean's Guest House, mentioned above under Walnut Garden Lodging. If you are in Lijiang, you can touch base with Xintuo Ecotourism Company.

Author Pieter Crow is a frequent contributor on GoKunming and is composing a series about hiking in the Tiger Leaping Gorge. Pieter is the author of TrekYunnan.com, a trekking guide to Yunnan Province. Portions of this article previously appeared on the website.

A beautiful water town view from Feng Tang's Bu'er Tang

In the bustling city of Kunming, finding a peaceful and picturesque retreat is easier than you might think. Kunming, often referred to as the "Spring City," is home to several unique "southern water towns" that serve as hidden sanctuaries within the urban landscape.

These serene spots provide a perfect escape from the daily hustle, offering tranquility and beauty akin to the famed water towns of Jiangnan (江南). Jiangnan refers to the region south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River in China, encompassing parts of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Anhui provinces. It is known for its picturesque landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and classical architecture, including traditional gardens and water towns.

Tanhua Temple Park: A tranquil southern retreat

Tanhua Temple Park (昙华寺公园), is a modest yet serene garden known as "Little Jiangnan" within Kunming. Amid the city's clamor, the park offers a peaceful haven for locals and visitors alike. The park's design features lush bamboo groves, intricately designed pavilions, and winding paths, creating a perfect backdrop for a leisurely weekend with family and friends.

In the summer, the park blooms with vibrant colors, from the blue-purple Plumbago flowers to the striking Agapanthus. The garden is divided into three sections: the Front Garden, Middle Garden, and Rear Garden, each with its unique attractions, such as the Peony Garden and the Camellia Garden.

Tanhua Temple Park, located at 533 Tanhua Road in Kunming's Panlong District, is open daily from 7:30am to 6:30pm with free admission, and the last entry at 5:30pm.

Lianhuachi Park: A hidden treasure in the city

Lianhuachi Park (莲花池公园), also known as "Dragon Pool", has been a renowned scenic spot in Kunming since ancient times. Despite its small size, this park's classical Jiangnan garden style, featuring pavilions, bridges, and flowing water, offers a serene retreat from the bustling city.

The park's design encapsulates the essence of traditional Chinese garden architecture, with ten scenic spots, including the Anfu Garden Gate, Dragon Pool Leaping Fish, and the Lotus Moon Dusk. The park's picturesque scenery often gives visitors the illusion of wondering along West Lake in Hangzhou.

Visitors to Lianhuachi Park can easily reach this serene by taking bus routes 65, 139, or K5 to Lianhuachi Station, or by riding Metro Line 4 to Xiaocaiyuan (小菜园) Station, Exit A, followed by a 5-minute walk. Open daily from 6:30am to 8:30pm with free admission, the park also offers boat rentals at 30 yuan per half hour.

Feng Tang's Bu'er Tang: A literary haven

Bu'er Tang (不二堂), named after the study of writer Feng Tang, is located in the Jiangsu Suzhou Pavilion within the Kunming Expo Garden. This exquisitely decorated retreat, complete with a small boat floating on the water, is a favorite spot for enthusiasts of hanfu (汉服), traditional Han Chinese clothing that has seen a resurgence among young people in modern culture as a symbol of historical and cultural appreciation.

The pavilion's design centers around water, featuring Jiangnan-style courtyards and symbolic landscape artistry, reflecting traditional Chinese aesthetics. It is a quintessential example of classical Suzhou private garden art.

Feng Tang's Bu'er Tang is accessible via Metro Line 5 or various bus routes, with visiting hours from 8:30am to 5pm, and the admission fee is 28 yuan per person.

Anliu Bridge: stories of water and shade

Anliu Bridge (安流桥), nestled in the Gaoqiao Village of Kunming's Guandu District, is an ideal summer escape. The bridge, surrounded by lush trees and flowing water, provides a refreshing retreat from the summer heat.

As you walk across the ancient stone bridge, you can almost feel the history beneath your feet. The nearly worn-out bluestone slabs tell countless untold stories, and the gentle breeze and babbling water create a serene atmosphere.

Anliu Bridge is located in Gaoqiao Village (高桥村), Puzhao Community, Guandu District, and offers free admission and convenient parking in the village with an entrance fee starting at 5 yuan. Visitors can reach the bridge by taking Metro Line 4 to Yangfutou Station (羊甫头), Exit D, and then walking or biking along Baoxiang River (宝象河).

Nanyuan Garden in Anning: A poetic landscape

Nanyuan Garden (楠园), located south of Baihua Park (百花公园) in the center of Anning (安宁), was designed by renowned garden expert Chen Congzhou. Built primarily from nanmu wood, cedar, and fir, this garden seamlessly blends the classical styles of Suzhou gardens with the unique landscapes and flora of Yunnan, creating a comprehensive work of art.

Despite its small size, Nanyuan connects the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau with the Jiangnan water towns, bringing a touch of Suzhou's charm to the southwestern frontier.

Nanyuan Garden is located at Zhonghua Road (中华路), Lianran Street (连然街) in Anning, and offers free admission and convenient parking available at the entrance of Baihua Park.

As the summer approaches, take the opportunity to explore one of Kunming's "southern water towns" and share your unique experiences!

In yet another landmark decision echoing China's recent commitment to global interconnectedness, the National Immigration Administration has unveiled a suite of visa reforms.

Designed to streamline entry procedures, these changes mark another change in China's post-pandemic journey towards economic recovery and international collaboration. The announcement is a clear signal of China's intent to fortify its position as a hub for tourism, trade, and cultural diplomacy.

The latest reforms introduce relaxed conditions for port visas. Foreigners needing to enter China urgently for business, trade, or personal reasons can now apply upon arrival. This is particularly significant for those unable to secure visas in advance due to time constraints.

Another major change is the 24-hour transit visa exemption. Travelers can now transit through nine major airports, including Beijing Capital and Shanghai Pudong, without a visa. This policy enhances China's appeal as a global transit hub and simplifies the travel experience.

For short-term visitors in China for business or tourism, the process for visa extensions and renewals is now more accessible. Applications can be made at local public security bureaus, offering flexibility and convenience.

Frequent travelers to China stand to benefit from the new provision for multiple-entry visas. This facilitates ongoing business and personal engagements, reflecting China's recognition of the importance of sustained international connections. The visa application process itself has also been streamlined, reducing the amount of required physical documentation.

These changes follow China's recent visa-free agreements with Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, and five European countries. The deal with Thailand, as reported earlier by GoKunming, is expected to reshape travel dynamics in Asia. Yunnan province, with its diverse cultural and natural attractions, is particularly poised to benefit from this influx of tourists. The visa-free agreement is part of a larger strategy to strengthen economic and cultural ties globally.

China's latest visa reforms signify a significant step in its journey towards global integration. By facilitating easier access for business, tourism, and cultural exchange, China opens its doors wider to the world. This policy change sets a progressive tone for China's future engagements, and suggests we have likely not seen the end of the country further opening up its borders.

In a landmark shift shaping the contours of international travel and diplomacy, Thailand and China have mutually agreed to waive visa requirements for each other's citizens, starting this March. This groundbreaking development, as announced by Thai Prime Minister Srettha Thavisin, marks a significant step towards strengthening ties and enhancing tourism between these two Asian powerhouses. The decision is not only a testament to their burgeoning relationship but also a strategic move to invigorate the tourism industry, which forms a vital economic artery for both nations.

This announcement comes on the heels of China's recent trial of visa-free travel for five European countries and Malaysia. This policy, effective from December 1, 2023, to November 30, 2024, allows for a 15-day visa-free stay for ordinary passport holders from France, Germany, Italy, The Netherlands, Spain and Malaysia. It is aimed at promoting China's high-quality development and opening up, according to Mao Ning, spokeswoman for China's Foreign Ministry.

Moreover, the recent visa-free agreement between China and Singapore further solidifies China's position as a global tourism hub. The reciprocal 30-day visa-free travel arrangement underlines the importance of people-to-people exchanges in bolstering economic and cultural connections.

Yunnan, with its diverse cultures and incredible natural resources, stands to benefit significantly from these policies. The province, known for its picturesque locales such as the ancient city of Lijiang and the mystical Shangri-La, has always been a magnet for tourists seeking a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. With Thailand being a proximate and significant tourism market for Yunnan, particularly for cities like Kunming, this visa-free regime is expected to usher in a new wave of travelers.

In 2023, Thailand welcomed 28 million foreign tourists, generating substantial revenue, with China being a significant contributor to these numbers. The visa-free policy will likely enhance these figures, contributing to a robust recovery post the pandemic-induced tourism slump. It is also expected to bolster cross-border trade and cultural exchanges, strengthening the socio-economic fabric of the region.

The implications of this policy are manifold. For Yunnan, it presents an unparalleled opportunity to attract a larger number of tourists thanks to its proximity to Thailand, thereby boosting local economies and fostering international goodwill. The province's rich offerings, from the serene Dali to the bustling streets of Kunming, are likely to see increased footfall, invigorating the local tourism and hospitality sectors.

However, with opportunities come challenges. The influx of tourists demands a balanced approach to preserve the ecological and cultural integrity of Yunnan. Sustainable tourism practices will be crucial in ensuring that the natural and cultural heritage of the province is not compromised.

As we observe the evolution of these visa-free policies, it becomes increasingly evident that they might herald the start of a more extensive opening. Given the challenges faced by China's inbound tourism in 2023, these progressive measures suggest a brighter outlook for 2024. The expanding horizon for global travelers setting their sights on China signifies a potentially transformative era in reestablishing global connections in the post-COVID era.

On November 24, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs announced a trial expansion in the scope of unilateral visa-free countries. Starting December 1, 2023, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, and Malaysia joined the list of nations with ordinary passport holders gaining visa-free access to China. This move is more than a mere administrative change – it represents a significant leap towards fostering global interconnectedness, reflecting China's evolving role as a modern urban and luxury tourism hub.

In response, Malaysian Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim announced on November 26 that, starting December 1 last week, Malaysia will offer 30-day visa-free entries for Chinese citizens. This decision coincides with the 50th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Malaysia and China in 2024, symbolizing a deepening of bilateral ties.

Concurrently, at the Joint Council for Bilateral Cooperation (JCBC) meeting held in Tianjin on December 7 between Singapore and China, Singapore's Deputy Prime Minister and Finance Minister Heng Swee Keat revealed that, building on the increasing number of flights between Singapore and China, both parties will implement a 30-day mutual visa exemption arrangement. This initiative aims to strengthen the flow of people between the two nations, further enhance cooperation, promote more personnel exchanges, and the foundation of the bilateral relationship.

While the visa-free policy promises to enhance tourism, experts in international relations suggest that its long-term implications extend beyond the travel sector. "This policy could be a catalyst for stronger economic and cultural ties," notes Dr. Mei Ling, a scholar in Sino-global relations. However, some analysts caution about the potential challenges in immigration control and mutual security concerns.

Yunnan Province's economy is traditionally closely connected with the tourism industry and is expected to demonstrate sustained growth following the new policy implementation. Stretching from the spectacular Meili Snow Mountain in the Shangri-La region rising up to 6,740 meters in the north to the subtropical Xishuangbanna in the south, Yunnan's diverse tourism resources have a great potential for further developing sustainable tourism in China. Li Wei, a tourism development expert, states, "Yunnan's success story in tourism is just the beginning." However, he also emphasizes the need for balanced growth to preserve the ecological and cultural integrity of the region.

China's transition towards electronic visas is underway, aiming to streamline the travel experience. This move, coupled with China's advanced digital infrastructure, is expected to remove barriers for foreign tourist and business travelers. While these advancements promise convenience, cybersecurity expert Zhang Huai cautions about the need for robust data protection measures.

The visa-free policy, alongside other recent initiatives, is anticipated to rejuvenate China's inbound tourism and foreign investment sectors. Places like Yunnan and Kunming, where tourism is a lifeline, are likely to benefit significantly. However, economic analyst Liu Kang suggests that "while the policy boosts tourism, its impact on foreign investment will depend on broader economic factors."

China's visa-free policy marks a notable step in its journey towards global integration. While it opens doors for enhanced tourism and cultural exchange, it also poses challenges that require careful consideration. As China navigates this new chapter, the balance between openness and security, and between economic growth and sustainability, will be crucial. The future, while promising, will require a nuanced approach to fully realize the benefits of this policy shift.

The Lijiang-Shangri-La Railway (丽香铁路), a significant addition to Yunnan Province's transportation network, opened its tracks to the public on November 26. This modern marvel connects the historic city of Lijiang with the culturally rich Shangri-La, traversing 139 kilometers of Yunnan's diverse and enchanting landscapes.

The journey from Shangri-La to Lijiang, which previously took several hours by road, is now dramatically reduced to just one and a half hours, with a further connection to Kunming in approximately four and a half hours. This railway, part of the larger Yunnan-Xizang Railway project, stands as a testament to the region's commitment to enhancing accessibility while preserving the natural beauty of its surroundings.

In its construction, the Lijiang-Shangri-La Railway presented a formidable challenge, originally starting in 2014 and taking nine years to complete with the efforts of around 20,000 workers. The route includes 34 new bridges and 20 tunnels, illustrating the complex engineering feats required to navigate the province's varied terrain.

This railway is more than a transportation line – it's a catalyst for socio-economic development, particularly in the ethnic minority areas it traverses. By improving accessibility, it aims to foster national unity, support border stability, and contribute to Yunnan's high-quality development.

Environmental stewardship was a cornerstone of the project. The construction team implemented rigorous ecological standards, establishing eight sewage treatment stations and numerous sedimentation tanks to protect the region's precious water sources. Additionally, significant efforts in green planting and wall support were undertaken to minimize the environmental impact.

The Lijiang-Shangri-La Railroad opens a new chapter in Yunnan's history, offering a seamless blend of cultural exploration and scenic splendor, while setting new standards in sustainable infrastructure development. As it begins its operations, this railway not only connects destinations but also bridges communities, enriching the social and economic fabric of the region.

The railway offers two high-speed train services daily from Lijiang to Shangri-La. The first train departs at 8:00pm, arriving at 9:18am, for 49 yuan per trip. The second leaves at 3:33pm, reaching its destination at 4:54pm, for 63 yuan per trip. From Shangri-La to Lijiang, there are three daily services. The first at 10:30am, arriving at 11:51am for 63 yuan, the second leaves at 1:38pm and arrives at 3:11pm, also at 63 yuan, and the third at departs at 5:50pm, arriving at 7:12pm for 56 yuan. These services provide a convenient and cost-effective way for travelers to explore the stunning landscapes and rich cultural heritage of the region.

Scenery of the Jingmai Mountain. Photo: Chen Yaohua

Nestled in the verdant expanse of Yunnan Province, an area already renowned for its UNESCO-listed wonders, the Cultural Landscape of Old Tea Forests of Jingmai Mountain in Pu'er adds another layer to the region's rich tapestry. Now inscribed as China's 57th UNESCO World Heritage site, this destination enriches Yunnan's allure as a cornerstone of both natural and cultural heritage.

An Enigmatic Landscape

The inclusion of Jingmai Mountain's ancient tea forests is significant not only for China but also for the global tea culture. It marks the first World Heritage site dedicated to tea, a milestone that acknowledges the cultural importance of a beverage that has historically been overshadowed by the likes of wine and coffee. Comprising five ancient tea forests and enveloping a total area of 18,000 mu (approximately 1,200 hectares), the site is a living testament to the ancient traditions that have cultivated it.

Residing in this revered landscape are nine traditional villages primarily inhabited by the Bulang and Dai ethnic groups. These communities have been the stewards of the tea forests for generations, maintaining an exceptional balance between heritage preservation and sustainable development. Theirs is a lifestyle intrinsically linked to the land, a symphony of human interaction with nature that has allowed both to flourish.

A harmonious coexistence of man and nature

Dai People’s Village in Nuogang. Photo: Xie Jun

What sets Jingmai Mountain apart is the unique cultivation technique developed by its local inhabitants. The mountain is more than a repository of ancient tea trees – it is a self-sufficient eco-zone home to over 900 plant species and 340 types of animal species. The practice of "understory cultivation" creates ideal light conditions for tea trees while maintaining a robust ecosystem. Such techniques have been passed down through generations, guided by religious beliefs and cultural traditions.

In addition to the tea, the land is rich in biodiversity. Flora and fauna coexist in an intricate web of interdependence, nurtured by the area's unique climate and geographical features. For instance, the local "phoenix tree" serves as a dwelling for "rock bees," exemplifying the symbiotic relationships that have evolved here.

The Challenges of Modernity

As news of the UNESCO inscription spreads, Jingmai Mountain faces the double-edged sword of increased tourism. While the added attention brings with it economic benefits, it also poses a risk to the fragile ecosystem and the cultural integrity of the local communities. Conscious of this, the local authorities are implementing measures to regulate the inflow of tourists, particularly during peak seasons.

Moreover, as Yunnan is already a high-profile tourist destination, known for its other UNESCO sites like the Stone Forest, the Old Town of Lijiang and the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas, the addition of Jingmai Mountain can be seen as a further enhancement to the province's appeal, albeit one that must be managed with care.

Sunrise at the Jingmai Mountain. Photo: Chen Yaohua

Future Prospects

With the successful inscription, local stakeholders are keen to strike a balance between ecological preservation and socio-economic development. Authorities have expressed the importance of community involvement, particularly among the younger generation, in the sustainable development of the region. Initiatives such as tea cooperatives and cultural projects aim to foster local industry while safeguarding ancestral traditions.

Conclusion

The inscription of the Cultural Landscape of Old Tea Forests of Jingmai Mountain reaffirms Yunnan's status as a cradle of diverse natural and cultural heritage. It also adds a new dimension to the province's tourism offerings, provided that the natural beauty and cultural richness are preserved for future generations. As China aims for a harmonious coexistence between man and nature, the example set by Jingmai Mountain serves as an inspiration, not just for Yunnan or China, but for the world at large.

From ancient times until the advent of modern highways and railroads, the main means of long-distance trade and international commerce by land was the caravan. Consisting of sometimes hundreds of animals, carrying both trade goods and their own provisions for the lengthy, arduous journey, caravans began connecting China economically with places as far away as Europe from the early Han Dynasty. Because the main item exported from China was silk, the caravan routes became known as the Silk Road. The most famous route ran from northwest China all the way to Europe. Another, less traveled but not as long or grueling, was the Southern Silk Road, running from Sichuan through Yunnan and on to Burma and India.

Han Dynasty authority in Yunnan was intermittent and under the Tang and Song Dynasties, Yunnan was an independent state – the Nanzhao Kingdom during the Tang Dynasty and the Kingdom of Dali during the Song Dynasty. Neither of these states exerted much control of their southwestern territories, relying on autonomous local rulers to keep the peace. When the Mongols conquered Yunnan they set up an administrative center in Tengchong, but the area was still lightly populated and relatively lawless until the Ming Dynasty drove the Mongols out in the late 14th century. With Yunnan now part of China, the Ming encouraged Chinese settlement in the province.

Traffic on the Southern Silk Road revived and as Tengchong was the last major stop inside China before crossing into Burma, immigrants arrived in droves and established businesses that thrived. The city's setting was part of the attraction. At an elevation of 1640 meters, with a mild climate year-round, it sits on a broad plain with mountains standing in a horseshoe shape around it – the opening to the south. The land produced grain, sugarcane, tea leaves and oil crops. Around 400 years ago tobacco cultivation began, generally on the slopes of the volcanoes north of the city. The very high-quality tobacco nowadays is usually blended with other Yunnan tobaccos.

Tengchong was also a transit point for silk and other items from Sichuan and Yunnan. The city's main import was Burmese jade, which the city's craftsmen carved and prepared for export all over China. The jade business is still part of the city, augmented in recent years by Burmese amber. The city holds a Jade and Amber Bazaar every five days, attracting merchants from both China and Myanmar.

As their businesses prospered, some merchants left home to expand their business abroad. This was particularly true in Heshun, ten kilometers to the south. Heshun is a town famous for its high percentage of residents who became Overseas Chinese. Retaining connections with the homeland, they endowed their families, and the town itself, with funds for nice houses, as well as parks, pavilions and even a library. With architecture classical but influenced by foreign styles, obvious prosperity, quiet atmosphere, lack of slums, pleasant parks, views and pavilions, Heshun is a popular excursion out of Tengchong.

Heshun translates as Peace and Harmony, an appropriate name for a town that exemplifies those concepts in its layout and atmosphere. It lies on a knoll above a clear shallow stream, holding about 1300 houses and 7000 residents. Nearly every family has at least one relative who is an Overseas Chinese. In fact, the number of Heshun-born Overseas Chinese is nearly twice that of the town's current residents. Over the centuries it has earned a reputation for producing talent – scholars and educators, writers and artists, philosophers and rich merchants.

A road winds around the base of the knoll and branching lanes lead to the houses, pavilions and ponds. A classical gateway marks the entrance to each neighborhood. The houses are usually whitewashed, with sloping tiled roofs and upturned corners. All of them look like the domiciles of fairly wealthy families. A few exhibit a mixed architectural influence, with standard Chinese style roofs – the corners turned up higher than usual – and very Western-like doors, balconies and windows.

The only non-Chinese style building in town is the large library on the campus of Yiqun Middle School. Set up in 1924, sponsored by Heshun's native Overseas Chinese, it contains over 60,000 volumes, including some rare ancient texts. The town's other public buildings all reflect the traditional style, embellished with carved beams, painted rafters and vertical boards of poem couplets, inscribed by famous calligraphers.

Some of these structures stand in the parks and rest-stops, of which there are several, often beside ponds. The town has plenty of places for strollers to take a break and enjoy the serenity and scenery. The ponds may be active at any time, with children playing or women washing clothes, using stone anvils mounted at the edge of the pool. The women do their laundry under roofed shelters built long ago as a gift by newlywed husbands before they set off on their business travels. Yuanlongtan, about 1.5 km behind Heshun, has the most limpid water and lies in front of the town's largest temple compound, sprawling up the wooded hill behind it.

Back in Tengchong it is difficult to find traditional architecture, as such neighborhoods are scattered between concrete high-rises and are slowly but inevitably disappearing. The city does boast one outstanding natural attraction not far from the center—Dieshuihe, a waterfall that plunges 40 meters over a sheer cliff. Inscribed in stylized calligraphy on the side of the cliff are four characters that describe the waterfall as "a sword that sweeps away the dense miasma."

The words take on a poignant irony when one knows that in 1879 Qing Dynasty troops, fearing a revival of the Muslim Rebellion, massacred hundreds of Tengchong Muslims by hurling them over the falls. The incident, not mentioned on any signpost in the vicinity, makes Dieshuihe a kind of historical attraction. Another is the city's former British Consulate, a large, forlorn-looking building built from 1921-31 and abandoned when Japanese troops invaded Tengchong in 1942.

British involvement in Tengchong began with an expedition led by Augustus Raymond Margary to explore trade routes from Shanghai through China and into India. While he was traveling a little north of Tengchong, in February, 1875 bandits waylaid his party and killed him and his ten Chinese workers. Great Britain then demanded compensation from the Qing government, while local authorities countered that the British had not informed them in advance of Margary's trip. Well aware of the Qing Dynasty's decline and weakness, the British forced one of its 'Unequal Treaties' on China, this one called the Chefoo Convention.

Under its terms the Qing government agreed to pay compensation to the victims' families, arrest and try the killers, grant British citizens the right of extra-territoriality and make revisions in its trade policy favorable to Britain. Ten years later Britain took control of northern Burma and Tengchong eventually became a trading post for goods coming out of British India. Prosperity returned to Tengchong and prevailed until the Japanese occupation of Burma.

After the Japanese War came the Chinese Civil War, the establishment of a Communist system, the convulsions of the Cultural Revolution, which reached into even remote cities like Tengchong, and finally the Reform Era. From then on former businesses revived and thrived, while industrialization and exploitation of the county's natural and mineral resources accelerated. The construction of new highways across the province rendered access to Tengchong much easier, an asset which sparked growth of a tourist industry.

While it doesn't have the towering snow mountains of the northwest or the tropical environment of Xishuangbanna, the county is unique in Yunnan for its many volcanoes, some of them still active. Relatively young volcanoes, geologically speaking, form a partial ring around the county capital. Adventurous visitors can take a long hike up the side of one to see the crater and view other mountains from a high perspective.

Most tourists were Chinese from big cities and unlikely to make such an endeavor. The geothermal feature more interesting to them was the presence of hot springs. Several of these lie scattered around the county, but the biggest is Rehai—the Hot Sea—about 20 km south of Tengchong.

Visitors here take a leisurely walk through the forest on a trail beside a creek. The hot springs pop up at frequent intervals, sometimes within the creek, or spewing from a fissure in a rock shaped like a toad's head, and sometimes out of a nearby pool. A few bubble out of man-made stone cauldrons, decorated with carved animal figures. The most impressive is the Big Boiling Pot, 3 meters wide and 1.5 meters deep, its steam, at 90 degrees celsius, gushing up several meters into the air.

The Rehai springs contain many minerals good for the health. They are effective in the treatment of rheumatism, arthritis and skin diseases. Near some of the larger hot springs in the nine square kilometer park are bath houses and steam beds where guests can indulge in such treatment.

Tengchong's other alluring attraction is the presence of the very traditional Hua Lisu ethnic minority, living in the highlands northwest of the city. Hua means 'flower' and this Lisu sub-group is so named for the bright, 'flowery' colors of their traditional apparel, especially that of the women. Lisu tradition claims the Lisu had a kingdom in eastern Tibet before the Tibetans migrated there. Afterwards they gradually moved south through Sichuan into western Yunnan.

They are divided into several sub-groups, but share the same language – part of the Yi group of the Tibeto-Burman linguistic group and related to Yi, Hani and Lahu. They have no written system, but the Lisu preserve their history in songs, which can sometimes take an entire day to sing. The Hua Lisu, one of the largest sub-groups, moved into the mountains of Tengchong around the beginning of the 16th century.

Security was an initial problem, for Ming Dynasty rule had not established control very much beyond the Southern Silk Road route. Bandits ruled the rural and remote areas. Finally, in the early 16th century the Ming Court dispatched Minister Wang Ji to conduct a pacification campaign in southwest Yunnan. To augment the forces he brought with him, he recruited local residents who had suffered from cross-border bandit raids, especially the Lisu, and gave them military training.

The campaign was a success, though Wang Ji died just before its conclusion, and law and order was established on the frontier. Other than being conscripted for government labor projects from time to time, the Lisu remained pretty aloof from the plains, practicing swidden agriculture, hunting and gathering and a basically subsistence economy. Over the centuries some of them moved to lower altitudes, straddling or flanking streams, and raised different crops on fixed fields. They were also involved in the logging industry in the past.

The easiest place to meet them is Guyong town, 52 kilometers northwest of Tengchong, on market day. Guyong sits on an elevated plateau a few hundred meters higher than Tengchong. The town is Han-dominated, as is the immediate rural area, but the hills are just several kilometers away, full of Lisu villages, and some of them show up in Guyong on market day.

They stand out at once for the attraction of their colorful clothing, both men and particularly women. Men might wear a turban or a broad-brimmed hat, plus a long jacket, usually white or pinstriped gray, boots and a sash over one shoulder of discs cut from cowry shells. The women wear long-tailed blue coats with silver clasps in the front and brightly colored flaps at the back, knee-length pants and puttees or black rattan rings around the calves and a belt with embroidered tassels holding a long black apron with colored trimming.

Their jewelry comprises many strings of beads, a stiff round collar ornamented with silver studs, buttons, shell discs or cowries, with silver pendants suspended from the bottom of the collar, plus other pendants that hang from the belt or apron. The traditional headgear is a round cap of a row of cowry shell discs, with colored cloth on top and in flaps over the back.

The most interesting time to visit Tengchong's Lisu is during the Sword Ladder Festival, on the eighth day of the second lunar month. They stage it in honor of Wang Ji, their commander in the pacification campaign. His soldiers revered him and said he was so brave he could walk across a bed of hot coals and climb a ladder of swords. This was a way of saying 'very very brave' but the Lisu took it literally. Every year brave volunteers run over a 'sea of fire' at night and the next day climb a ladder of 36 machetes, the sharp side up. Their only reward is the prestige from doing it.

Lisu villages have a better material life now, with roads, bridges, schools, easy access to the market and other improvements. They are more integrated into the modern world, yet the Sword Ladder Festival proves that they cling to certain old traditions, especially those that are so tied up with their history and identity, that are quintessentially Lisu.

Editor's note: This article by author Jim Goodman was originally published on his website Black Eagle Flights. There you can find accounts and photos of Goodman's 40 years in China and Southeast Asia. Collections of his works — many of them about Yunnan — can be purchased on Amazon and Lulu. Goodman has also founded Delta Tours, where he guides cultural and historical journeys through Vietnam and western Yunnan. Recently Goodman has also started a Facebook group called Yunnan Discovery where he frequently posts pictures of Yunnan.

All images: Jim Goodman